[{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/3d-design/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"3d Design"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/3d-print/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"3d Print"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/3d-projects/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"3d Projects"},{"content":"I looked at acrylic makeup organizers for weeks and never bought one, because I couldn\u0026rsquo;t decide on a layout and committing to the wrong one meant living with it. So I designed my own: a base tray with separate compartments that snap on and off, so I could try a layout and change it later instead of replacing the whole thing.\nMaterials and tools # Filament: PLA Nozzle: 0.4mm Design process #The base comes in a few widths, from four compartments up to nine, so it can match whatever shelf it\u0026rsquo;s going on. The modules are separate pieces that snap onto it: slim slots for lipsticks and mascara, deeper bins for palettes and powder tins, a taller well for hair ties and bobby pins, an open slot for a phone or a compact mirror. Because the base and the modules are printed separately anyway, getting two colors was just a filament swap between prints, not a multicolor print.\nTolerance turned out to be the hard part, not the shapes. One module fits the base fine with almost no gap. Line up eight or nine of them across a tray, though, and that same small gap adds up fast, and by the last module there wasn\u0026rsquo;t room left for it.\nFinal result #It\u0026rsquo;s been on my bathroom shelf for about two years now and I love it! After initial tinkering with the layout, I\u0026rsquo;ve not really needed to swap out the modules, but it\u0026rsquo;s great to know that I could.\nDownload the design #Files are on Printables and MakerWorld if you want to build your own layout. The bases run from four to nine compartments, plus the full set of modules.\n","date":"24 Aug 2026","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/moduva-makeup-organizer/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"I looked at acrylic makeup organizers for weeks and never bought one, because I couldn\u0026rsquo;t commit to a single layout. So I designed a modular one instead, where the compartments change instead of the whole tray.","title":"A makeup organizer that lets me keep changing my mind"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/home/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Home"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/makeup-organizer/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Makeup Organizer"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/modular-design/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Modular Design"},{"content":"Product sketches, small design decisions, material experiments, and the rituals behind each piece. Built slowly on purpose — a couple of hours a week, for years rather than weeks.\n","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"\u003cp\u003eProduct sketches, small design decisions, material experiments, and the rituals behind each piece. Built slowly on purpose — a couple of hours a week, for years rather than weeks.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Notes from the studio"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/","section":"Objects worth leaving out","summary":"","title":"Objects worth leaving out"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/pla/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Pla"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/printables/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Printables"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Tags"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/brand/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Brand"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/categories/","section":"Categories","summary":"","title":"Categories"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/design/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Design"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/categories/studio/","section":"Categories","summary":"","title":"Studio"},{"content":"I\u0026rsquo;ve been making objects under the name ilouva for a while now, mostly alone, mostly quietly — the kind of thing you tell yourself you\u0026rsquo;ll write about \u0026ldquo;once there\u0026rsquo;s more to show.\u0026rdquo; There\u0026rsquo;s rarely a lot to show. Fourteen pieces in, I\u0026rsquo;ve decided that\u0026rsquo;s exactly when to start.\nThis isn\u0026rsquo;t a maker profile. I\u0026rsquo;m not chasing print counts or documenting a process for its own sake. I want a record of the work as it happens: the sketch that didn\u0026rsquo;t survive contact with the printer, the material that turned out wrong, the small decision that made an object worth keeping instead of another thing cluttering a shelf.\nThe test every piece has to pass #Before anything gets a number and a name, I ask it three questions:\nIs it beautiful enough to leave out? Is it useful enough that I\u0026rsquo;d actually reach for it? Is there one small, unexpected thing about it — a delight, not just a function? If I can\u0026rsquo;t answer yes to all three, it stays a sketch.\nWhy write this down at all #Mostly because the interesting part of an object isn\u0026rsquo;t the print — it\u0026rsquo;s what led to it. What it was standing in for before it existed, what didn\u0026rsquo;t work on the first try, how it ended up living in a home instead of a drawer. That\u0026rsquo;s worth a record, even if the audience is mostly future-me.\nWhat\u0026rsquo;s next #I\u0026rsquo;ve got a few directions taking shape already — trays, holders, a couple of modular pieces I\u0026rsquo;m still not happy with. I\u0026rsquo;ll write about them as they\u0026rsquo;re finished, not before. This is a couple of hours a week, for years rather than weeks, so don\u0026rsquo;t expect a flood.\nConsider this the first entry. More soon, at the pace this actually happens.\n","date":"18 Aug 2026","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/first-post/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"Fourteen objects in, I\u0026rsquo;m finally writing down why — starting with the test every piece has to pass before it gets to stay.","title":"The quiet beginning"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/3d-printing/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"3d Printing"},{"content":"In addition to 3D printing, sewing is one of my hobbies. Tracing sewing patterns is a necessary but often time-consuming step in many projects. To simplify this process, a projector that projects patterns directly on the fabric on the sewing table is possible. There are many dedicated projectors on the market, but they come at a high cost. When I came across the web tool \u0026ldquo;pattern projector\u0026rdquo; which allows to use any projector for calibrating and projecting patterns, I decided to give it a try. I bought a cheap beamer, and, after not finding a pre-made mount to 3D print, decided to design \u0026amp; print my own.\nMaterials \u0026amp; Tools #For this project, I used:\n3D Printer: Standard FDM printer Filament: PLA Mini projector: A budget-friendly mini beamer (I used this one from Amazon) Additional materials: Foam padding (to absorb vibrations), some glue, two screws (in my case I just took two large screws that I had lying around and that had the right size) Design Features #The design focuses on practicality and stability. The mount secures the projector with a screw mechanism and includes a stabilizer to hold it snugly in place. To reduce noise and prevent minor vibrations, I added a piece of foam to the stabilizer, ensuring the projection remains clear and steady.\nWhile the projector\u0026rsquo;s fan noise might be a drawback in other settings, it doesn’t interfere with its use for pattern projection. The lightweight design of the mini projector also makes it ideal for this application.\nThe Pattern Projector Tool #One of the key tools for this project was the discovery of the Pattern Projector tool. It allowed me to easily calibrate the projector, ensuring that patterns were perfectly aligned and scaled to my workspace. The user-friendly interface of the tool made setup straightforward, and I was ready to start cutting patterns in no time. This tool is free, open source and requires no sign-up: https://www.patternprojector.com/en\nPrinting \u0026amp; Assembly #The mount is entirely 3D-printed and designed to be lightweight yet sturdy. The components include:\nBase mount: Attaches securely to the ceiling. Projector holder: Includes the screw mechanism and stabilizer for a snug fit. Foam padding: Glued to the stabilizer to absorb vibrations. Assembly was quick, and the mount was ready to use in just a few hours.\nPXL_20241125_100434486~2 PXL_20240518_075109954~2 PXL_20240518_183616901 PXL_20240518_075100764 PXL_20240518_075025497 PXL_20240518_075018397 PXL_20240518_074951193 Final Thoughts #This project has transformed my sewing experience, making it faster and more efficient to work with patterns. The ceiling mount not only saves time but also helps create a cleaner and more precise workspace. If you’re into sewing and have been considering a similar setup, I highly recommend giving this a try!\nI’ve uploaded the STL files for the mount on Printables—check them out if you’d like to create your own. Let me know if you’ve used a projector for your crafts and how it’s worked for you!\n","date":"25 Nov 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/a-3d-printed-ceiling-mount-for-sewing-projectors/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"In addition to 3D printing, sewing is one of my hobbies. Tracing sewing patterns is a necessary but often time-consuming step in many projects. To simplify t\u0026hellip;","title":"A 3D-Printed Ceiling Mount for Sewing Projectors"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/sewing/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Sewing"},{"content":"For my latest side project, I decided to design a book stand that is not only functional but also references my Dutch roots. Inspired by the architecture of grachthuisjes (canal houses), I created a stand that holds one open book while allowing multiple books to be stored on the sides. On the sides, it has two small drawers as well as a small storage shelf hidden under the open book. In the case of children, this place can be used to house a figurine, on one of the pictures, you\u0026rsquo;ll see a small hedgehog has moved into our \u0026ldquo;attic\u0026rdquo;.\nMaterials \u0026amp; Tools #For this project, I used:\n3D Printer: Standard FDM printer Filament: PLA in white and blue Nozzle: 0.4mm (standard nozzle size worked well for this detailed design) The Design Proces #The design is inspired by the iconic look of Dutch canal houses, with their tall, narrow facades and intricate architectural details. It is a two-part print: one is the house and the second is the \u0026ldquo;side stand.\u0026rdquo; If space is a constraint, the object would still work as a stand-alone design without the side stand. That option is included in the downloadable files as well.\nPrinting \u0026amp; Color Choices #To keep the Dutch theme alive, I chose white and blue PLA. The contrast between the two colors gives the stand a clean, classic look, while still being playful enough for a kid’s room, for example.\nThe entire project was printed in PLA, unfortunately, the white PLA gave me some challenges. As you can see, there is some under-extrusion, especially around the windows. This is entirely fixable with different settings, but I didn\u0026rsquo;t think it was worth re-printing for a neater result.\nFinal Results #The finished stand is both practical and decorative and has been heavily for the last few months. The small drawers are a practical addition, allowing for some hidden storage on the bedside table.\nIf you’re interested in printing one yourself, I’ve uploaded the STL files on Printables. Check out the pictures below for a closer look at the design:\nFinal Thoughts #This was a fun project that brought together both aesthetic inspiration and practical function. Designing the stand to mimic Dutch canal houses gave it a unique look, while the combination of book storage and small drawers made it incredibly useful. This idea could be used to create book stands inspired by other architectural styles.\n","date":"21 Oct 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/a-dutch-design-inspired-book-stand/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"For my latest side project, I decided to design a book stand that is not only functional but also references my Dutch roots. Inspired by the architecture of\u0026hellip;","title":"A Dutch-Design Inspired Book Stand"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/fun/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Fun"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/beginner-friendly/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Beginner-Friendly"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/games/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Games"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/simple/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Simple"},{"content":"When traveling by plane or train (or by any means), every little bit of space can be precious. I like to take some card games with me, but this summer I noticed that the boxes of those card games were a lot bigger than necessary. Additionally, some were in a bad state from previous trips. The evening before leaving, I decided to design some quick boxes to solve both problems. (Yes, just a few hours before leaving was asking for stress\u0026hellip;)\nAs this project is so simple, there is a quick tutorial at the end to help you make your own card boxes.\nMaterials \u0026amp; Tools # 3D Printer: Standard FDM printer Filament: PLA (a reliable choice for quick prints with decent durability) Nozzle: 0.4mm (no need for anything special here—standard settings worked fine) The Design Process #Since I wanted to be able to easily make boxes for different card games, I went with a parametrized design to quickly adjust the box dimensions. The goal was simplicity: create boxes that were compact, functional, and sturdy enough to protect the cards during travel while saving some precious space. I focused on two games in particular Ligretto and Exploding Kittens, since they were the ones I wanted to take with me.\nThere are definitely more elaborate designs out there, but sometimes, simplicity is key. I didn’t want to spend hours prototyping; I just needed something that worked. And honestly, there’s something satisfying about a simple, effective solution that solves a problem right when you need it.\nFinal Results #In the end, the boxes turned out just as I needed them! They’re compact enough to save space in my luggage, and the cards fit snugly inside without any unnecessary bulk. Plus, the durability of the PLA (over the original cardboard) will prevent any more wear and tear during travel.\nPXL_20240915_073926126 PXL_20240915_073735672 PXL_20240915_074029613.MP~2 ligretto box ligretto closed ligretto empty top ligretto open measure cards Final Thoughts #This project shows that you don’t always need to spend hours perfecting a design—sometimes, a simple, quick solution is all you need. These boxes did the job, saved me space, and protected my games from further damage during travel. I’ll probably revisit the design and refine it later, but for now, they’re a perfect travel companion!\nTutorial #If you would like to design your own travel / protective box for your cards, here is an overview of the design steps and measurements. To get started, take your card game and take the following three measurements (ideally, in your design later, make it parametric based on these three data variables):\ncard-width: the width of a single card card-height: the height of a single card stack-height: height of the stack of all cards in the game Additionally, define the following:\nwall-width: strength of the walls for the box. 1.6 mm is a nice compromise between strength and compacticity. corner-radius: radius of the corner rounding. I used 4mm for this project. lid-offset: the offset between the base walls and the lid. Setting this too low will not allow your box to close and too high can make it too loose. I suggest starting with 0.3mm card-offset: the offset between the cards and the box. Similarly as with the lid, setting it too small will make your cards hard to put in and remove from the box. Setting it too large will let them move around too freely. I started with 0.25mm. For example, this may look as follows in your design software if using parameters:\nNow you have everything to get started!\nBase #Let\u0026rsquo;s start with the base (bottom piece) of the box. It is composed of a flat rectangle (with rounded corners) and some walls to contain the cards neatly. The sketch looks complicated, but is easy to make with the measurements above!\nStart by creating a rectangle with the following dimensions: width - d1: cardwidth * 2 + wallwidth + cornerradius + cardoffset * 2 height - d2: cardheight + cardoffset * 2 + cornerradius Round the corners with your pre-defined corner radius. You now have your inside walls. Create two additional rectangles with the same center points and corner fillets with the following dimensions: Outer walls: width - d3: cardwidth * 2 + cornerradius + cardoffset * 2 + 3 * wallwidth height - d4: cardheight + cardoffset * 2 + cornerradius + 2 * wallwidth Box boundary: width: cardwidth * 2 + cornerradius + cardoffset * 2 + lidoffset * 2 + wallwidth * 5 height: cardheight + cardoffset * 2 + cornerradius + wallwidth * 4 + lidoffset * 2 You now have three rectangles with rounder corners in each other. Before we start extruding, we just need to add the separator wall. For that, create a final rectangle with the same center points and the following measurements: wallwidth and d1 (don\u0026rsquo;t fillet the corners yet) Now, remove the small wall at the top of the rectangle we just created (to create two separate stacks) and fillet the inside corners. We are now ready to save the sketch and start extruding! Press pull all the base surfaces with 2mm: Press pull the walls with half the height of the stack and some margins (I took 5mm) (make sure to join with the previous body): Next, we need to sketch the holes on the side to be able to easily remove the cards. Here the design is really up to you, I went with some simple rounded shape, but a rectangular hole will work as well. Press pull and cut the existing body to create the holes. I made the holes on both sides of the box, but you could also decide to cut only one wall. Fillet the cutout corners And there you go, the base is done! Lid # The lid is made quite similarly to the base, but is a lot simpler shape. Start by sketching with the following rectangles (all with the same filleted corners): Outer walls: width: cardwidth * 2 + cornerradius + cardoffset * 2 + lidoffset * 2 + wallwidth * 5 height: cardheight + cardoffset * 2 + cornerradius + wallwidth * 4 + lidoffset * 2 Inner walls: width: cardwidth * 2 + cornerradius + cardoffset * 2 + lidoffset * 2 + wallwidth * 3 height: cardheight + cardoffset * 2 + cornerradius + wallwidth * 2 + lidoffset * 2 Press pull the \u0026ldquo;base\u0026rdquo; of the lid by 2mm Press pull the walls of the lid by the same height as the base (in my case half the stack height + 5mm) Create a circle sketch and press pull to create a small opening in the lid Fillet the cutout corners Optionally, you can emboss the name of the game on the box by creating a text sketch and using the emboss feature or a press pull. And now the lid is done as well! ","date":"30 Sep 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/travel-card-boxes/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"When traveling by plane or train (or by any means), every little bit of space can be precious. I like to take some card games with me, but this summer I noti\u0026hellip;","title":"Travel card boxes (with design tutorial)"},{"content":"Recently, I needed a new clock for the house and decided to challenge myself to create it with my 3d printer. I do not have multi-color printing capabilities on my 3d printer, hence I needed to get creative to make it work. Printing the dial and numbers separately and with tight offsets allowed for a good look with sufficient contrast.\nI wanted this clock to work well for smaller children who are just learning how to read time. Hence, adding both the hour and minute numbers around the dial allows for an easier read of the exact time.\nMaterials and tools # Printer: standard FDM printer Filament: 1.75mm PLA Nozzle: 0.4mm Clock mechanism (mine is 56 x 37 x 56 mm) Black and gray spray paint (compatible with plastic) The Design Process #The main challenge for this project was printing without the benefit of multi-color capabilities. To achieve a colorful result, I designed the dial and numbers separately so that they could be printed in different colors and then interlocked. The precision of the print allowed for a perfect fit, with the numbers locking snugly into place on the dial.\nMy clock mechanism has no suspension mechanism included, so the clock mount needed to cater to that. Due to that, that part does need to be printed with supports enabled.\nIt took a few attempts to get all the parts to fit snugly together, but once they did, it was such a satisfying mount!\nIterations of the dial and numbers design\nAssembly \u0026amp; Final Touches #After printing all the parts, I spray-painted the mount as well as the number dials to get a nice finish.\nBefore moving on to the fun part (assembly), the cutouts of some numbers needs to be glued to the number dials. (The circles in the 0, 6, 8, 9 as well as the triangles in the 4\u0026rsquo;s) This is a bit finicky, but with some tweezers to the rescue, it ended up being quick. Note that since the parts fit well together and there is not a lot of movement on the clock, it is not a huge problem if the glue is not holding on that strong.\nNow comes the best part: assembling all the pieces! It\u0026rsquo;s pretty straightforward and self-explanatory, a video will follow a bit later.\nFinal results #I am very happy with the results, this custom clock fits well with the wallpaper and is easy to read the time on!\nOf course, this would have been a lot easier with a printer capable of multi-color prints (likely it could have been printed as a single piece), but, as you can see, it\u0026rsquo;s possible to get good results without one.\nBonus: remix #As you can imagine, it is now quite easy to change the dial design to get a different clock. Since I was on a roll, I decided to make a second one, this time with some clouds. Thanks to some roughly applied spray paint, it has a nice misty effect giving it a different look than the jungle clock.\nBoth models can be found on printables.\n","date":"21 Sep 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/jungle-themed-kids-clock/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"Recently, I needed a new clock for the house and decided to challenge myself to create it with my 3d printer. I do not have multi-color printing capabilities\u0026hellip;","title":"Jungle-Themed kids clock"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/gadget/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Gadget"},{"content":"This project is a corona baby for me. During the lockdown when I was suddenly working full-time in home office, I got tired of wearing a headset all day. Therefore, I purchased an all-in-one conference device (webcam, microphone, and speaker). This worked well, but the device, placed on the desk, was very low and gave an unflattering picture by filming from below. (oh the vanity!) I started working on a stand to solve the height problem, look good on a desk, and not take up too much space. As you might recognize, it is loosely inspired by those pretty tripod lamps.\nMaterials and tools # Printer: standard FDM printer Filament: 1.75mm Wood PLA Nozzle: 0.8mm (due to the abrasive nature of the wood PLA, it is better to take a 0.6 or 0.8 mm nozzle than the \u0026ldquo;standard\u0026rdquo; 0.4mm one) Wood stain (oak colored) The Design Process #My goal was simple: create a stable, elegant stand that elevates my conference device to eye level without taking up too much desk space. The design is comprised of four pieces—three foot pieces and a base, all secured with standard screws.\nI chose Wood PLA because I wanted the final product to have a natural, wooden aesthetic that would blend in with my office decor. However, printing with wood PLA requires a few adjustments, like using a larger nozzle (0.6mm or 0.8mm) to avoid clogs due to the filament’s abrasive texture.\nOnce printed, I applied an oak wood stain to enhance the look. Staining wood PLA can be challenging (getting an even coat is tricky!), I probably need a bit of practice to get it looking perfect.\nFinal results #As you can see from the photos, the stand has been in use for over three years now, and it\u0026rsquo;s held up well! The webcam is at the perfect height, and I can even fit my mini-PC underneath, which saves a lot of space on my desk.\nIf you look closely, you’ll notice some under-extrusion in the back from when I was still figuring out my settings. But honestly, since it’s in the back, it doesn’t bother me at all. This is a great example of how even if a print isn’t perfect, it can still be useful and look good! Don’t let small imperfections hold you back.\nDownload the Design #Feel like trying out this stand? The STL\u0026rsquo;s can be downloaded on printables. By sharing this project, I hope to inspire others to dive into 3D printing—even if it’s your first time. Projects don\u0026rsquo;t have to be perfect to be useful!\n","date":"16 Sep 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/webcam-at-eye-height/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"This project is a corona baby for me. During the lockdown when I was suddenly working full-time in home office, I got tired of wearing a headset all day. The\u0026hellip;","title":"Webcam at eye height"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/wood-pla/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Wood Pla"},{"content":"I don\u0026rsquo;t wear much jewelry, mainly just earrings and from time to time a ring. However, I removed them before going to sleep and used to toss them in a box lying around. This led to tangles (with the one necklace in there) and a messy experience.\nAfter searching high and low for a 3D-printed jewelry holder that matched my style, I came up empty-handed. So, I decided to design my own! This also became my first attempt at publishing a model on Printables and see what happens. Turns out, not much :-). But I was happy with the result, and the holder has been doing its job for the past 18 months!\nMaterials and tools # 3D Printer: My trusty $200 Ender 3, which has been with me through many prints Filament: 1.75mm Wood PLA for that non-plastic result Nozzle: 0.8mm (the larger nozzle helps with wood PLA’s abrasive nature—better than the standard 0.4mm) Design Process #Now, let’s dive into the design. It may look simple, but this project went through several iterations before I was happy with the final result.\nThe base of the design started as a 2D honeycomb pattern. I drew this in vector art software, printed a few small-scale prototypes, and experimented until I found a design that looked good and was strong enough to hold jewelry.\nNow came the design of how to store the jewelry. Initially, I played around with different types of hooks, but they were too fragile and invariably ended up breaking off after printing. The final design has a set of \u0026ldquo;baskets\u0026rdquo; and hooks integrated into the 2d design.\nWall Mounting Solution #The wall mounting is pretty simple, there are two screw holes behind two baskets and a screw goes through there and spacers so that the holder is not too close to the wall. I did have a problem with the top part not being stable enough, but nothing an additional spacer glued at the back couldn\u0026rsquo;t solve.\nFinal result #I’ve been using this holder for about 18 months now, and it’s holding up great! The wood filament gives it a natural look, and the design fits my aesthetic perfectly. Plus, no more tangled necklaces!\nDownload the design #If you want to print this model, you can find the model on printables.\n","date":"9 Sep 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/jewelry-holder/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"I don\u0026rsquo;t wear much jewelry, mainly just earrings and from time to time a ring. However, I removed them before going to sleep and used to toss them in a box ly\u0026hellip;","title":"Jewelry holder"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/jewelry-holder/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Jewelry Holder"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/3d-printer/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"3d Printer"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/calibration/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Calibration"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/flow/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Flow"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/k1-max/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"K1 Max"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/slicer/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Slicer"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/temperature/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Temperature"},{"content":"I\u0026rsquo;ve been printing for a few years now and have gone through the (I guess usual) phases of this hobby: initial motivation, disillusion, steep learning and relatively good results, upgrade the 3d printer, understanding slicers actually make a difference, different materials, etc\u0026hellip; Currently, I\u0026rsquo;ve gotten more and more practice and am not as easily happy with the results as I was in the beginning. My latest project (post to follow) required the use of a beautiful green matte PLA which would just not give me good results. My printer (Creality K1 Max) which had basically been plug \u0026amp; play since the purchase (except the occasional nozzle clog) suddenly started showing problems, and mainly the two dreaded ones: under extrusion and bed adhesion problems.\nTo get rid of the two problems, I tried many things (which probably all contributed to the improvements, but didn\u0026rsquo;t quite cut it):\nChange the PEI plate (I had damaged it with a scraper) Replace the nozzle (due to said clogging) Disassemble the extruder to remove a tiny bit of filament that was stuck there New nozzles And even the excruciating process of levelling the bed (owners of the K1 / K1 max may know what I\u0026rsquo;m talking about) Next up, change slicer settings:\nSlow print speed Increase temperature Ironing and others… None of these achieved satisfying results, and I was starting to wonder whether I needed new hardware (or at the very least throw away the filament\u0026hellip;.). In an act of despair, I decided to finally dive into the world of filament calibration (temperature and flow). I soon discovered the Creality print software actually comes with some handy pre-sliced models that help with this and that it is not as much of black magic than I initially thought.\nTemperature calibration # Temperature calibration for the filament consists in printing a tower made up of stacked elements that all look the same. Each element is printed at a different temperature, and the different effects of each setting can then be seen.\nMy temperature tower looked like the one on the left. There are some differences (more stringing on the high temperatures, for example), but globally the elements looked quite similar. After some close investigation, I decided 195 °C looked the best (which is a lot lower than what I normally use!) and configured my slicer with that temperature.\nFlow calibration #The second calibration method I looked into was flow calibration. This two-step method allows configuring how much filament is pushed through the nozzle. The default setting for my filament was 0.95. This is a pretty standard setting for PLA.\nThe first step of this calibration prints out 9 rectangles with different flow settings. One then chooses the best one (aka the one with the smoothest surface) and adjusts the filament settings before proceeding to step two. The adjustment follows a simple formula (in the case of my Creality):\nnew flow = old flow * (100 + best setting) / 100 In my case, + 10 looked the best, so I adjusted my flow to 1.045. The second step is actually the same, except the samples are \u0026ldquo;closer together\u0026rdquo; with 1% increments. In my case, this actually didn\u0026rsquo;t lead to a different setting.\nIf it would, the formula works the same as the one before:\nnew flow = old flow * (100 + step 1 + step 2) / 100\nFrom the prints, you can already guess that this setting actually has a rather significant effect on the result!\nThe results and conclusion #Below are a few pictures made with different stages of optimization. As you can see, the calibration step is what made the biggest difference! (and it was by far the quickest change, the bed levelling alone took about 2-3 hours) Hence, if you ever come across a filament that just doesn\u0026rsquo;t print right, maybe give the temperature and flow calibration a try! Unfortunately, there still is some under-extrusion in parts of the print, but from \u0026gt; 30cm distance it\u0026rsquo;s really not visible luckily.\nBefore\nAfter\nIf you\u0026rsquo;re interested in the process I followed (Creality specific), here is the official manual explaining how to perform the calibration. There are more options available, but the two above should already allow for good improvements!\n","date":"2 Sep 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/the-art-of-calibration/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"I\u0026rsquo;ve been printing for a few years now and have gone through the (I guess usual) phases of this hobby: initial motivation, disillusion, steep learning and re\u0026hellip;","title":"The art of calibration"},{"content":"","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/tags/garden/","section":"Tags","summary":"","title":"Garden"},{"content":"I started 3D printing a few years ago after receiving an Ender 3 for my birthday. Like most people who started 3D printing at that time, I tried using it, quickly got discouraged, and set it aside for 6 months or so. I guess with the new generation of 3D printers, the adoption might be a bit smoother!\nInitially, I mainly printed other people’s designs, but at some point, I spotted my first use case for a useful object. We recently moved into a new house and installed a small border in the garden. You might know the type, the ones out of metal that rust. It has quite a sharp edge and I soon got nervous that someone would get hurt when passing by. I decided to try and design a cover for the corner. Since my printer only printed PLA, I decided to ignore most people saying it’s not a suitable material for the outdoors and use it after all.\nAs you can see below, the object is extremely simple, but what a satisfaction to make something that has a use! And PLA in the garden? Turns out it\u0026rsquo;s more durable than I imagined, as it lasted four full years before showing signs that it needed to be replaced. (Aka holes) However, just to be safe, I recently re-printed a new one out of PETG, hopefully, it will last a bit longer.\nIf you\u0026rsquo;re new to 3d printing, trying simple projects around the house is an easy way to stay motivated along the (sometimes steep) learning curve that this hobby entails.\nMaterials and tools # FDM printer with a standard heated bed, 0.4mm nozzle Filament: 1.75mm black PLA (first version), black PETG (second version) No special slicer settings Final results #3 Model rendered:\nPictures \u0026ldquo;in action\u0026rdquo;:\nBorder protector\nBorder without protection\nBorder with protection\nOld border protector in PLA after two years exposed to the elements\n","date":"26 Aug 2024","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/posts/my-first-useful-object/","section":"Notes from the studio","summary":"I started 3D printing a few years ago after receiving an Ender 3 for my birthday. Like most people who started 3D printing at that time, I tried using it, qu\u0026hellip;","title":"My first useful object"},{"content":"The work focuses on objects that will be used and loved: little tools, trays, holders, and everyday companions that feel considered rather than technical.\nThe name #Ilo is Finnish for joy. ilouva takes its name from it. It\u0026rsquo;s a small, private nod to what the studio is actually about: opening up a bit of joy, one object at a time.\nThe practice #Every piece is held to the same quiet standard: beautiful enough to leave out, useful enough to be reached for often, and delightful in some small, unexpected way. Curves over brackets, warmth over hardware.\nThe objects are designed here and printed at home. We ship files, not packages. No warehouse, no cargo ship, no waste. Just a design, sent to wherever it\u0026rsquo;s needed, made real on someone\u0026rsquo;s own printer.\nWho\u0026rsquo;s behind it #The studio is run by one person, quietly, alongside everything else in her life, investing a couple of hours a week, most weeks. I\u0026rsquo;d rather the objects speak for me, so this is a studio without a face or a name attached, and that\u0026rsquo;s on purpose.\nThis journal is a record of the work as it develops, containing sketches, design notes, material experiments, and the first-print-friendly lessons that make a useful object possible. It starts small on purpose: the plan is to keep building this, quietly and steadily, for years rather than weeks.\n","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/about/","section":"Objects worth leaving out","summary":"\u003cp\u003eThe work focuses on objects that will be used and loved: little tools, trays, holders, and everyday companions that feel considered rather than technical.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 id=\"the-name\" class=\"relative group\"\u003eThe name \u003cspan class=\"absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100\"\u003e\u003ca class=\"group-hover:text-primary-300 dark:group-hover:text-neutral-700\" style=\"text-decoration-line: none !important;\" href=\"#the-name\" aria-label=\"Anchor\"\u003e#\u003c/a\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003e\u003cem\u003eIlo\u003c/em\u003e is Finnish for joy. ilouva takes its name from it. It\u0026rsquo;s a small, private nod to what the studio is actually about: opening up a bit of joy, one object at a time.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003ch2 id=\"the-practice\" class=\"relative group\"\u003eThe practice \u003cspan class=\"absolute top-0 w-6 transition-opacity opacity-0 -start-6 not-prose group-hover:opacity-100\"\u003e\u003ca class=\"group-hover:text-primary-300 dark:group-hover:text-neutral-700\" style=\"text-decoration-line: none !important;\" href=\"#the-practice\" aria-label=\"Anchor\"\u003e#\u003c/a\u003e\u003c/span\u003e\u003c/h2\u003e\u003cp\u003eEvery piece is held to the same quiet standard: \u003cstrong\u003ebeautiful\u003c/strong\u003e enough to leave out, \u003cstrong\u003euseful\u003c/strong\u003e enough to be reached for often, and \u003cstrong\u003edelightful\u003c/strong\u003e in some small, unexpected way. Curves over brackets, warmth over hardware.\u003c/p\u003e\n\u003cp\u003eThe objects are designed here and printed at home. We ship files, not packages. No warehouse, no cargo ship, no waste. Just a design, sent to wherever it\u0026rsquo;s needed, made real on someone\u0026rsquo;s own printer.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"About"},{"content":"The first object made just to solve a problem: a sharp metal garden border, a toddler running past it, and a cap simple enough to design in an evening. The original PLA version lasted four full years outside before it needed replacing — the PETG remake is betting on longer.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/border-guard/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eThe first object made just to solve a problem: a sharp metal garden border, a toddler running past it, and a cap simple enough to design in an evening. The original PLA version lasted four full years outside before it needed replacing — the PETG remake is betting on longer.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Border Guard"},{"content":"Modeled on the tall, narrow facades of Dutch canal houses, with a shelf for one open book, drawers on the sides, and a hidden attic space under the roofline — currently home to a small hedgehog figurine that moved in uninvited.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/canal-house-book-stand/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eModeled on the tall, narrow facades of Dutch canal houses, with a shelf for one open book, drawers on the sides, and a hidden attic space under the roofline — currently home to a small hedgehog figurine that moved in uninvited.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Canal House Book Stand"},{"content":"A lockdown project born from one too many unflattering low-angle video calls. Three feet and a base, screwed together and stained oak, raise the camera to eye height while still leaving room for a mini PC to hide underneath.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/webcam-stand/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eA lockdown project born from one too many unflattering low-angle video calls. Three feet and a base, screwed together and stained oak, raise the camera to eye height while still leaving room for a mini PC to hide underneath.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Eye-Level Webcam Stand"},{"content":"Built after coming up empty searching for a holder that matched the room. A 2D honeycomb pattern became the wall, small baskets and hooks worked into the cells to catch everything that used to end up loose in a box — necklace included.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/honeycomb-jewelry-holder/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eBuilt after coming up empty searching for a holder that matched the room. A 2D honeycomb pattern became the wall, small baskets and hooks worked into the cells to catch everything that used to end up loose in a box — necklace included.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Honeycomb Jewelry Holder"},{"content":"Designed around a printer with no multi-color option: dial and numbers printed apart, in contrasting spray paint, then locked together with a tight-tolerance fit. Both hour and minute numbers ring the face, so a child can read the exact time without guessing.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/jungle-clock/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eDesigned around a printer with no multi-color option: dial and numbers printed apart, in contrasting spray paint, then locked together with a tight-tolerance fit. Both hour and minute numbers ring the face, so a child can read the exact time without guessing.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Jungle Clock"},{"content":"Started after months of circling acrylic makeup organizers online, never settling on a layout worth committing to. A base tray takes any mix of modules — slim slots for lipsticks, deeper bins for palettes, a well for hair ties — so the arrangement changes instead of getting replaced.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/moduva-modular-makeup-organizer/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eStarted after months of circling acrylic makeup organizers online, never settling on a layout worth committing to. A base tray takes any mix of modules — slim slots for lipsticks, deeper bins for palettes, a well for hair ties — so the arrangement changes instead of getting replaced.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Moduva"},{"content":"Every piece here started as a small annoyance in a real room. New ones arrive regularly;\n","date":null,"permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eEvery piece here started as a small annoyance in a real room. New ones arrive regularly;\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Objects"},{"content":"Built for pattern projection, not movie night: a screw mechanism and a foam-lined stabilizer hold a budget mini projector dead level above the sewing table, so patterns land on the fabric exactly where they\u0026rsquo;re traced.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/projector-ceiling-mount/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eBuilt for pattern projection, not movie night: a screw mechanism and a foam-lined stabilizer hold a budget mini projector dead level above the sewing table, so patterns land on the fabric exactly where they\u0026rsquo;re traced.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Projector Ceiling Mount"},{"content":"Designed the night before a trip, when the original cardboard boxes were both oversized and falling apart. Three measurements — card width, card height, stack height — parametrize the whole thing, so a new box for a new game is a five-minute job, not a redesign.\n","date":"1 Jan 0001","permalink":"https://ilouva.com/objects/travel-card-box/","section":"Objects","summary":"\u003cp\u003eDesigned the night before a trip, when the original cardboard boxes were both oversized and falling apart. Three measurements — card width, card height, stack height — parametrize the whole thing, so a new box for a new game is a five-minute job, not a redesign.\u003c/p\u003e","title":"Travel Card Box"}]